Balmoral wool farmer enters partnership with Beijing women’s fashion powerhouse

CHINA may be thousands of miles away and a world away from Australian wool farming culture, but signs that world is effectively getting smaller are increasing, with a Balmoral sheep farm having their premium-quality fleece selected for exclusive use by an upmarket fashion label.

The first ‘Woodbine’ owners, Gerard and Sabrina Watt, knew about the intention of Edition, a 13-year-old company with 200 shops worldwide, to put their superfine merino wool into part of their “timeless wardrobe” collection aimed at “presenting an image of modern gentlewoman”, was a phone call from their broker.

However, Gerard’s initial reaction was instant apprehension, especially with the detailed wool tracing mechanisms now in place.

“Our broker, Kevin Beaton from Nutrien phoned us and said, ‘there’s a Chinese company that’s located your wool’,” Gerard said.

“I thought we may have breached some withholding period with animal health treatment … but it was good news, it was exciting.”

He was told the Woodbine yarn met the rigorous standards Edition wanted for the eight styles they wanted to create, including a 16.5-17 micron number (about one-fifth the diameter of human hair) - along with enough bales to supply the volume for the 11,134 pieces planned.

Generally, a lower micron number like that indicates finer, softer wool that is considered luxurious and suitable for high-quality garments - but the company wasn’t just satisfied with the quality, they loved the ‘package’ the 800 hectare station was able to offer in marketing with its iconic Australian landscape, buildings and a multigenerational history.

The Edition Traceable Wool Collection will feature a QR code taking them to a web page so that customers can find out where Woodbine is and explore detailed information about the path of the fibre from sheep to clothing.

Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) traceability program manager, Mark Scott, explained that deals such as this can sometimes be initiated from the farm end, but in this case, it was the fashion company that started looking at the wool quality and reduced the potential supply to a short list of farms, eventually deciding on Woodbine.

“It probably comes down to trust,” he said.

“If you’ve got that long history, you can show that active participation in a professional sense with benchmarking and spending field days with other growers and a community sense as well - if you can show that you’re a trusted partner in your supply chain, then I’m sure it’s going to get attention.”

He also emphasised animal husbandry and landcare awareness as big factors - to “show that you care”.

“Many brands are looking at examples of what’s being done on farms,” Mark said.

“So if they have efforts in terms of environmental stewardship, or animal welfare - it doesn’t matter what it is - if it can be evidenced in some way, that makes (the attraction) stronger.

“That’s something that’s been happening for years and years.”

With the contract agreed on, the next stage was a next-level glossy marketing campaign filmed on the property 60 kilometres north of Hamilton.

“The next thing is we were told they wanted to do this shoot,” Gerard said.

“They knew exactly the date - it had to be on this day in the first week of August; it was quite wet and wintry and we tried to encourage them to maybe do it some other time - but no, it had to be done then to coincide with their spring release in China.”

Gerard said the shoot was preceded by a couple of days of “reconnaissance” where increasing numbers of crew arrived for preliminaries and set up a schedule to make every use of available light.

“The full team came on the Tuesday and I was very impressed with the way they worked - their methodology, their work ethic, how pleasant they were - they were amazing,” he said.

“They work from just-daylight to dark, and it was under difficult conditions - the ground was quite wet; it didn’t rain, but there was drizzle. The model - I remember, she walked (around) … in rubber boots.”

Sydney-based AWI video production manager, Kieren Robison, said although the timeframe was tight, he loved the beauty of the area but still wanted it to look great.

“It’s beautiful country down there,” he said.

“I really love it there. Usually the morning light’s the best.

“We don’t take it for granted the access that we get to film on properties all over Australia.

“These places - the general public doesn’t get access to (them) - so (we’re) definitely in a privileged position.”

With 10 years’ experience of this work with AWI’s marketing arm, The Woolmark Company, Kieren said it was definitely a project where he needed to pay attention to the details.

“If I’m involved in any shoot - especially with overseas … I do see the value in what we’re putting out there, it’s not for small audiences, especially somewhere like China, it’s potentially going to be exposed to millions of people and it might be the first time they’ve seen where the fibre comes from,” he said.

“It’s pretty paramount that we (show) best practices. We make sure that we’re showing the industry in the best light. We always try to make sure … the sheep are being treated well.

“We know the power of images, so I don’t take it lightly.”

With the garments going on sale in China a few months ago, the prestige was a welcome reward for several decades of being a successful wool growing business.

Part of the success included regularly meeting with some fellow farmers in the district to help each other through the many issues that can beset a livestock business.

“It sort of goes back to the 90s - we got involved in a benchmarking discussion group with other local farmers within probably a 60km radius of Balmoral,” he said.

“That changed us in terms of our approach to livestock farming and to appreciate how (much) more of a business that was than what we had considered.”

He said he had learned the value in being prepared to pay for professional advice and “deal with other farmers that have a positive outlook”.

“It was probably the best thing that ever happened to us - even more than this,” Gerard said.

“Not only financially good but socially it was good, mentally it was good (to) know there’s an opportunity to share ideas (and) share situations.”

Gerard was careful to recognise the providential way the deal effectively just fell into their laps and hoped it would open the door further for other farmers in the region to benefit as the quality of product received more direct international attention.

“I know woolgrowers in this area, (who) for 30 and 40 years have been trying to set up direct links with processes around the world,” he said.

“They have put an incredible amount of work into it - and have encountered many stumbling blocks.”

“So for us - we didn’t seek out to make connection with an end user, but it’s just happened … somehow they made that trace back to us.”

In respect of other farmers’ prospects, Mark said he was confident the “highly attractive” nature of the Southern Grampians area would certainly mean more of these kinds of deals in the future.

“It ticks many boxes in terms of the heritage of wool growing there, the quality of the products that’s been produced, and then it’s just matched with a beautiful landscape,” he said.

With exactly 50 years of farming this month and retirement getting closer, Gerard said it “feels pleasing” to have a strong international recognition towards the end of his career.

“Knowing that your wool’s being appreciated in another country and being processed into whatever (as) supposedly an environmentally good product is gratifying,” he said.

“That’s really heartwarming.

“Probably from the dollar point of view, it doesn’t really interest me that much. But … to know that what we’re doing here is being appreciated - it’s a good thing.”

One of the videos produced at Woodbine can be found at bit.ly/rtg29UEHD